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Thursday, March 25, 2010

Blank Slate?

I'm back from Tucson where life was so pleasant and so completely different in every way from KC.  And I returned to a home where the downstairs and part of the upstairs is in the process of being painted.  Everything had to be removed and put away for awhile.   Since I am a bit of a collector, it had been a long time since I had seen bare walls and I have to say that I kind of like the serenity.  The new paint is a light buff which is between yellow and tan.  It is a color that holds the sun and makes the rooms calm and light.  It is also pretty feminine and not a color I would have thought of when Ed and I were one.

My feeling is that this may be the time to rethink possessions.  I don't even want to put curtains back up right now.  I have a collection of textiles that used to occupy a living room wall - they aren't going back up.  I have many paintings that I love, but I don't want so many on the walls now.  The china cabinet is too big and I wish I could find a new home for it.  This may be my best opportunity to edit stuff, make breathing space, and enjoy the peace of less.

Monday, March 22, 2010

Thanks Sally and Dave

It's always hard to leave people you care about.  The weekend was wonderful with good company, good walks, delicious food, and the generosity of old friends.  I am taking some of Tucson and the Oro Valley home with me!

Sunday, March 21, 2010

Poppies Everywhere

Yesterday morning we drove a short distance to Catalina State Park.  This is a beautiful place with many hiking trails, mountains quite close, up and down terrain, and a stream at the bottom running fast with snowmelt.  We walked about a mile and a half with the midpoint being fields of yellow poppies with orange centers, all waving on their thin stalks  on a windy day.  This area has had an unusually wet winter so the green leaves and groundcover and the number of wildflowers are all unusual.  There were a lot of people out on this Saturday.  Many had brought their dogs.  The sky was a brilliant blue.  You couldn't ask for a better day.  We forded the stream three times and the cold water felt good - about ankle high - on a day that was getting pretty warm.  When we got back to the parking lot, volunteer naturalists had set up displays of snakes, gila monsters, and a coatlmundi (have to check this spelling) who looked like a small fox.  We could pet the snakes - a nice variety of cool and warm, different size scales, one felt extremely soft like a baby's skin.

In the afternoon, we were on the University of Arizona campus which is beautiful and very different from other schools I have seen.  It is a mixture of original buildings in a soft gray-rose brick with new, futuristic buildings for optic science and other fields often connected with astronomy or space.  We visited the archeology and anthropology museum where Sally is a volunteer in the gift shop.  There were two special exhibits.  The first was works by Corona, a Mexican artist in the '30s and '40s who painted the Tucson area but preferred the dress of the previous century. All his subjects wore what looked like 18th century dress. He worked in oils, decorating trays and furniture as well as painting daily life on canvas.  Naive and charming, his pictures of animals were wonderful.  All the horses pranced with curving proud necks.  His flowers were especially fine and reminded me of those I had seen at Catalina that morning.  We also saw a showcasing of eleven of the local Indian tribes.  Their creation stories were varied and interesting but all were firmly based in the visible world they knew just as their tools, pottery, and baskets made brilliant use of the scant materials in their world.

Such an interesting day.

Saturday, March 20, 2010

Spring in Tucson

I'm here at last,  after a marathon day of short flights alternating with long waits in airports.  Dave and Sally met me just past security - a welcome sight.  They look wonderful and they are just like comfy shoes - we pick up right where we left off.  The last time Dad and I were here, they had just moved out to Tucson - I think it was not long after we left Cincinnati.

On the way back from the airport we stopped at a Mexican place for a quick supper.  Then on to the Ora Valley and home.  Sally has collections of rocks and minerals, all well lit and labeled.  She had some of the Bisbee turquoise which turns out to be very light.  S and D have had fun decorating the house with southwestern things.  Remember when I painted saguaro cactus on the stair risers after my first trip out here?  Sally has done horseshoes around a wall niche - it is wonderful.  We took a short walk around the neighborshood with a flashlight just in case the rattlers were out.  It was still too cool, but soon they will be lounging around at night soaking up warmth from the sidewalks.

We have a full day planned.  This morning we are headed out to see the wildflowers on some trails they know.  Then a bit further west to see petroglyphs.  In the afternoon, we go to the Arizona campus to see some of the archeological and geological museums.  Sally volunteers in one of the gift shops as well as at the Desert Sonoran Museum.  This is a wonderful life for them out here, with busy, interesting, and useful lives in a place they love.

Sunday, March 7, 2010

65th Birthday!

I think this was the best birthday I have ever had.  Mary, Sally, and Dann took me out to Grand St. for brunch and that was one of my favorite places.  But what really makes this day special is where the kids are now and how much they care for each other and for all those who are dear to them.  I am so proud of our children - they are such decent, kind, hard-working, heads-screwed on right, loving people.  That's a gift that lasts me all my life.  Thanks, sweet Pooh, for all you did to make them that way!

Monday, March 1, 2010

Coffee and Disney

Boy, do I miss the good Italian coffee!  I'm ordering a small macchiato or cappuccino and they get close sometimes.

One of the most interesting cultural differences I found is Italian Disney channel.  There is a LOT of sex on Disney over there!  Here we would call it soft porn - lots of rubbing against each other with sound effects but clothes on.  So what's going on?  The children I saw were very well protected and obviously cherished.  But, at the same time, there is this exposure on the media.  How to compare it to the U.S.?  Here kids are certainly not nearly as well protected in everyday life and sex is everywhere - just not on Disney!  I don't know how to interpret it - do you?

Friday, February 26, 2010

Lessons

In many ways, this trip was a test to see how well I could function traveling alone.  I passed.  But a lot of the joy of travel is sharing it with someone, and I don't think I will take off on my own again if I have a choice.

Next time, I will do a lot more preparation before I go, since a lot of what I saw is running together or I didn't have the background to really appreciate the significance of what I was seeing.    Really good, cushioned athletic shoes next time - I don't care how they look.  Losing fifty pounds would help too!  Small backpack for sure.

It was an amazing experience and has confirmed my belief that I can travel the world.  The cultural differences are interesting - no value judgment, just interesting.  The U.S. really is much more open and friendly.  Naive?  Maybe.  But lovely because this is my culture.  Even the dour customs agent was a welcome sight.  I could have kissed the ground if I had been sure I could have gotten up again!

Ciao.

Last Day - How Much Can I Pack in?

Started the day at Santa Maria Novella.  The entry to the cloister is flanked by bas reliefs of lambs.  Graves and their flat stones are all around the perimeter of the cloister walk.  Inside, the highlight for me was the Masaccio "Trinity."  Instead of using two different colored stones to build the vaulted ceiling and ribs, the darker "stone" is painted on - a money saver.  Sometimes the painted elements in these old churches remind me of prehistoric American Indian painted decoration.

Stopped at the Central Market for souvenirs.  Decided on chocolate bars and shopping bags.  I could have spent some more time here.  Good place to pick up food for a do-it-yourself meal.  Lovely food.  The vendors were friendly and helpful.  All in all, a happy place.

I decide to do Rick Steve's "Renaissance Walk" tour down the pedestrian via Calzaiuoli.  The Museum of the Orsanmichele is open.  Donatello again, so wonderful.  In this room at the very top of the church, the brick vaults and ribs of the ceiling are bare so I can see how it is done.

On to the Ponte Vecchio, a disappointment except for the views of the Arno which seem timeless in spite of the new condos.

Back to Il Bargellino to pick up my suitcase.  Onto the train to Milan and a bus to the airport Holiday Inn Express where I finally figure out how to keep the room's lights on with my key card.  A quick sandwich and glass of wine in the lobby and - to bed.  Up early in the morning to catch the shuttle to the huge and very confusing Milan airport.  And home!

San Lorenzo Market, Duomo Museum, Santa Croce, Uffizi

San Lorenzo Market is junk.

The Duomo Museum is amazing, full of sculpture and friezes removed in earlier remodelings.  The Donatello figures are instantly recognizable - you know them at once.  The faces are mobile, emotional - hard to believe they are not flesh.  The Penitent Magdalene looks very modern.  Reminds me of Giacometti.  Every line of it speaks misery.  This museum and San Marco are my favorites so far.

Santa Croce has altars to various saints arrayed all the length of the side walls.  The Donatello crucifix looks very modern.  Tombs of Michelangelo and Machiavelli.  Pazzi Chapel.

I used Rick Steve's audio tour of the Uffizi.  It is an abbreviated art history course, but ignores a lot.  I would like to do the Uffizi again without it.  My feet are screaming and I don't know how they are going to carry me back to Il Bargellino.

Florence

On to Florence this morning.  Franca took me to Milano Centrale.  Up two escalators and found the track easily.  Trains are so easy to use in Europe.  The trip took only an hour and a half.  After Bologna, it was through tunnels all the way, surfacing just long enough to see the low, dark mountains we were traveling through.

The little family-run hotel, Il Bargellino, was an easy walk from the train station at one end of the via Guelfa.  This is a great value.  My room is comfortable and large and has its own bath.  I am finding many uses for a bidet!  Excellent for shaving legs.  Not bad for doing hand wash!  Towels are thin woven cotton - not much to dry with.  Another of those interesting differences.

There is a lot less waste here.  The tankless hot water heaters are much more efficient.  Coffee is better and served in savoring amounts rather than our huge portions.  What is it in our culture that needs things super-sized to feel satisfied?

There is a small trattoria down the block with good food.  For lunch I had a risotto with vegetables, a cabernet and espresso.  Alors, they brought a digesif and almond biscotti.

This afternoon I walked to the Church of San Marco with its wonderful Fra Angelico frescos - so bright and fresh.  Maria so blonde and wispy, the Christ Child so lumpy with baby fat and so out-of-sorts.  I went upstairs to see the cells, each with its shuttered window and its fresco for contemplation.  The cells were cozy.  The frescos on one side of the building all had arched tops.  Those on another side were rectangular with painted borders.  There was a suite of rooms for Savonarola and for Cosimo de Medici.

I came upon the Duomo by surprise at the end of a street.  The Baptistery is small, octagonal, charming with big shiny gold doors.  Inside, the Duomo is disappointing, very dark and cold - the one in Milan is much more beautiful.  The domed painting over the altar is very beautiful though.  The old church in the cellar is kind of a yawn.

I happened on what is said to be Florence's "most beautiful piazza," Santissimo Annunziata.  There is a lot of scaffolding up right now, but Ferdinand I is astride his horse, gazing at his beloveds' bedroom.  This must be much better in summer and sunshine with real lovers all around.

Found the Accademia in an ugly, squat building.  David is amazing, but trite too - seen in too many pictures.  If I gaze on his face from his right side, he looks self-confident, but look from his left side and I see the fear in his eyes.  He is just a boy.  The Prisoners are interesting: you see Michelangelo wresting the figures from the stone front to back and almost believe in his description of uncovering them rather than carving them.  One or two looked as if there wasn't enough marble left for the heads.

Take-out panini, fruit tart, and peach juice to take back to Il Bargellino for supper.  Exhausted and feet hurting.  I took time to organize and repack.  Charged Ipod, phone, Kindle.

Thursday, February 25, 2010

Alvin and the Chipmunks

Today Alice and I visited the Archeological Museum.  It was nice to have a child to take with me.  Then we went to see the Church of Sant'Ambrogio that was on my list of want-to-sees.  So old, so simple and stark.  The atrium had primitive carvings that sometimes seem more powerful than what came later.  Inside were the remains of St. Ambrose.  Alice was mesmerized.

Afterwards all three of us went to see the new Alvin and the Chipmunks movie.  Who would have thunk it would be so much fun.  It was not necessary to know Italian - the message was all visual.

My impressions of Milan:  this is a city that is very northern, very wealthy, very businesslike.  There is a lot of reserve defining the culture.  I would not want to be a poor person here.  It reminded me of Frankfurt.  If there is warmth it is reserved for close family and close friends.  You would never get your bottom pinched here.

Rain, rain

Thursday, it is pouring.  Out I go with my green umbrella, but no boots.  Headed again toward the Piazza del Duomo and the Galleria where I window-shopped at two bookstores including Rizzoli.  I got very, very wet and my shoes were irrecoverable.  I walked to Pinacoteca di Brera.  The modern collection was forgettable, but the rest was wonderful and easy to navigate.  The "Dead Christ" I will never forget - the color of the skin, the utter absence of life, the odd perspective of looking feet-first at a body.  There was a special exhibition of Carlo Crivelli with his sumptuous depiction of brocades and patterned textiles.  In the paintings before 1650, the faces are those of neighbors, real people with real wrinkles, seeing eyes, emotions all over their faces.  After that, faces become stylized and boring.

Had lunch at a tourist spot across the street - horrible mushroom pizza, apple cake, but good wine and espresso.  Franca met me with the car.

Wednesday, Milan

I am so fortunate to be visiting a dear friend in Milan.  It is lovely to stay in someone's home and be able to get a sense of everyday life in a new place.  Don't know about you, but I always fantasize about living in the places I visit.  Franca and nine-year old daughter, Alice, have a wonderful flat in a fashionable part of Milan.  I visited Alice's school - just a block away - plus the little grocery they use and a few other neighborhood shops.  I could walk into the very center of town - the Duomo - in twenty minutes, following the trolley tracks.  Along the way, I have never seen so many jewelry stores and shoe stores.  Milanese women are quite smart no matter their age.  Also there is no gray or white hair on women - even ninety-year-olds.  Must be a genetic phenomenon.  Also high cuffed boots.  And no one is overweight.  Fat and gray hair have been banished.

On the way it is necessary to stop for a cappucino and a brioche.

The Duomo sits on a huge piazza teeming with gypsys and pickpockets.  But you have your moneybelt on so need not worry.  Do not make eye contact, and say "NO" forcefully and keep moving.  It is one of my favorite churches inside with pillars like huge tree trunks.  It is very cold but beautiful, huge, terrifying in a way.  The floor is an amazing pattern in stone - my favorite thing. The outside looks like a wedding cake that went berserk. But by the doors are bas reliefs that are wonderful.

On the side of the piazza is the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, the original shopping mall.  In the middle of the piazza is V. E. himself on his horse.

Going through the Galleria you emerge at the other end in another piazza and see La Scala.  Such a plain, unadorned building - all the drama is on the inside.

Franca is an excellent cook.  We agree that midday is a good time for the biggest meal.  I see greens that are new to me and only need some balsamic vinegar to dress them.  The coffee is sublime.  When I get home I want to make these small cups of espresso that get savored.

And What to Take

I'm writing this after I returned home.  Here is the wisdom I gathered on what to take next time -

1) A small to medium backpack.  The things I felt I needed for the day were awfully heavy in a purse.  So in the backpack would go:

jacket when the day warms up
guidebook until it is needed
water bottle
kindle
small flashlight
maps

2) Really useful items:

small LED flashlight
fleece towel for showers and for absorbing water when you do a handwash
small umbrella
extra memory card for camera
good maps
money belt for bulk of cash and passport
smallish current converter for charging things
ziplocks for taking a panini back to the hotel or isolating dirty laundry
small single-use packets of Woolite
cleanser that can be used for body and hair both
plastic bag that can cover backpack and/or purse in the rain
A couple plastic hangers, one with clips for pants
A small pad of paper
Neosporin and a few bandaids
Blow-up pillow for the plane.  You can move this around to cushion the sore spots - it really helps.
Small purse that can be worn bandelier style.  In this goes just the money you need for that day, the map you are using that day, kleenex, some wet wipes.


3) Sufficient Clothing

2 pairs of black pants that will dry quickly
3 black or gray lightweight knit shirts
1 extra pair shoes - forget style, take well-broken in tennis shoes
plenty of socks
3 prs. underwear which will dry quickly
1 pj top (you don't need bottoms, wear underwear)
minimal make-up - foundation, lip gloss, sunblock-moisturizer combo, nail clippers
1 sweater
Waterproof windbreaker
A couple bright scarves to jazz up the black theme



4) IPOD

This and Kindle are indispensible.  Load lots of podcasts for the plane, easier to hear than music over the engine noise.

All of the above should fit in a carry-on bag, including the backpack.  Check the bag.  The only things you are carrying  are the small purse, Kindle, Ipod (fix the earphones around your neck), moneybelt under your clothes, and blowup pillow.  Be the last to get on the plane - you don't have to worry about overhead space since you checked your bag.  If you don't like the looks of your seatmate, you can take any empty seat - maybe find two or three together so you can nap (try for a series in the middle rows).  Drug yourself with anything that will help you sleep.  See you when we land!

Thursday, February 11, 2010

What to Take?

I am obsessing over what to take.  My trips always seem to be in spring or fall when the temperatures fluctuate wildly and you can't pack for just cold or just hot.  Looks like a lot of rain in Milan which may stop on the 20th when I go to Florence.  That would be great as I will be walking all over the place in F.  Also, daytime temps in F will be in the 50's - much too warm for a winter coat.  So I am thinking black windbreaker which will keep off the rain, warm sweater and silk undershirt, and umbrella.  Hat, gloves, scarf.  That should take care of a range of temperatures, huh?

Now for the electronics.  I am tempted to take the netbook but it looks like our ubiquitous wifi doesn't apply in Italy.  Ted says to jot down impressions in a small notebook and post later.  Netbook is small but it is still extra weight.  I will take the ipods on which I have downloaded Rick Steves' museum guides.  Also the Kindle and cell phone.  That is three chargers already plus the small current converter.

There is always this dialogue going on between the girl who wants to take all the comforts of home and the vagabond who wants only a light backpack!