I'm writing this after I returned home. Here is the wisdom I gathered on what to take next time -
1) A small to medium backpack. The things I felt I needed for the day were awfully heavy in a purse. So in the backpack would go:
jacket when the day warms up
guidebook until it is needed
water bottle
kindle
small flashlight
maps
2) Really useful items:
small LED flashlight
fleece towel for showers and for absorbing water when you do a handwash
small umbrella
extra memory card for camera
good maps
money belt for bulk of cash and passport
smallish current converter for charging things
ziplocks for taking a panini back to the hotel or isolating dirty laundry
small single-use packets of Woolite
cleanser that can be used for body and hair both
plastic bag that can cover backpack and/or purse in the rain
A couple plastic hangers, one with clips for pants
A small pad of paper
Neosporin and a few bandaids
Blow-up pillow for the plane. You can move this around to cushion the sore spots - it really helps.
Small purse that can be worn bandelier style. In this goes just the money you need for that day, the map you are using that day, kleenex, some wet wipes.
3) Sufficient Clothing
2 pairs of black pants that will dry quickly
3 black or gray lightweight knit shirts
1 extra pair shoes - forget style, take well-broken in tennis shoes
plenty of socks
3 prs. underwear which will dry quickly
1 pj top (you don't need bottoms, wear underwear)
minimal make-up - foundation, lip gloss, sunblock-moisturizer combo, nail clippers
1 sweater
Waterproof windbreaker
A couple bright scarves to jazz up the black theme
4) IPOD
This and Kindle are indispensible. Load lots of podcasts for the plane, easier to hear than music over the engine noise.
All of the above should fit in a carry-on bag, including the backpack. Check the bag. The only things you are carrying are the small purse, Kindle, Ipod (fix the earphones around your neck), moneybelt under your clothes, and blowup pillow. Be the last to get on the plane - you don't have to worry about overhead space since you checked your bag. If you don't like the looks of your seatmate, you can take any empty seat - maybe find two or three together so you can nap (try for a series in the middle rows). Drug yourself with anything that will help you sleep. See you when we land!
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